Mobile Youth of Akono

A major theme that came up often during my field studies program in East Africa was rural-to-urban migration – a phenomenon in many, if not all, developing countries in which many people will move from their villages to seek economic gain (among other advantages) in the up-and-coming cities.  While it’s true that this allows for family members to make a bit of money to send home (sometimes), it also robs the rural villages of a young workforce.

Akono is definitely affected but this rural-to-urban migration phenomenon.  The other day while I was in a nearby village farming cassava with a women’s cooperative, we were laughing about how out of the twenty women present, only two (myself included) were under the age of fifty.  The women admitted that all of their children who were my age had moved to Yaoundé or another city.

In Akono it is evident that there is a lack of young adults.  Equipped with four primary schools and three high schools, the village attracts many children from surrounding villages, who either spend the school year at relatives’ homes or rent a bedroom in one of Akono’s many lodges.  When school year is over, they return to their own villages.  Once they graduate high school (or if for some reason they drop out of school – a far too frequent occurrence), they often leave for the big city where they hope to find work.  The young men that stay in town typically opt for a job driving motorcycle taxis.  So, aside from the children, the moto-taximen, and the people who were affected here to work government jobs or to work for the church, the majority of the population consists of older people.

I’ve heard from many different people (e.g., the cassava cooperative, some of my fish farmers, even friends from my old village in the North) who say that the youths seek easy money.  Driving moto-taxis is a good way to make a quick buck (and if Cameroon had more of a saving culture, these drivers would be doing quite well for themselves).  The women at the cassava cooperative claim that the Cameroon's modern youth have little-to-zero interest in learning or practicing agriculture because it is work that takes much time and effort.  (And thus they found it quite amusing to see a young white lady wielding a hoe under the hot African sun.)

Anyways, that was not exactly what I came here to tell you about, but it’s a good introduction.  What I came here to tell you about today is this amazingly dynamic group of youths in Akono who started a volunteer organization to work towards development: Jeunesse Mobile d’Akono (Mobile Youth of Akono, or JEMA).

JEMA, an association consisting of mostly men (I’m pushing to recruit more women) between the ages of 20 and 30, focuses on developing Akono through education, health, and environment.  While I've been hearing that young people from Akono typically move to Yaoundé, it's exciting to have found a special group who have not only chosen to stay, but have chosen to stay and help their community.

I was first introduced to JEMA a few months ago, but recently we’ve begun working more hand-in-hand.  It started last week when I taught lessons about malaria to two of the primary schools.  A few days after my lessons, I met with JEMA and they told me that one of the main things they wanted to do for Akono was to help reduce the high rates of malaria.  So a few days later, we visited another primary school so that they could first watch my lesson, and then teach alongside me to other groups of students.  So far we’ve reached 585 students and plan to reach out to the high schools in the coming weeks.

In their study of local needs, that they found was that the hospital was not fully equipped for proper sanitation.  I can’t really give you a reason for why a government hospital happened to not have enough gloves, soap, bleach, brooms, etc., but that’s just how it was.  So members of JEMA got together and each contributed 3,000CFA ($6), and today we went to present our donation to the hospital: 2 buckets, 2 pairs of gloves, 2 bottles of bleach, 2 bags of detergent, 2 brooms, and 2 squeegees.  It’s not much, but it’s better than nothing.  And what’s even better than "better than nothing" is that this group of young people saw a problem and cared enough to make a change.

I am incredibly excited to begin working towards development with this dynamic group of young people.  But do you know what’s even cooler than our shared interest in development?  They are interested in learning as much as they possibly can.  So, people are late for our meeting?  No problem!  Let me just whip out this book about the discourses of famous politicians.  Or, let’s ask Maria about where she came from, or about how the other places she’s visited in Africa compare to Cameroon.  Or, let’s discuss the global economy!  Or even, hey Maria!  You know aquaculture… why is that pond a different color than that other pond?

Never a dull moment with JEMA!  I’m proud to be associated with this association.  I look forward to the work that we will accomplish together, as much as I look forward to expanding my French vocabulary with all of our intellectual conversations.

Members of JEMA, myself, and the head doctor at the Akono Centre de Santé.

Fishies fishies everywhere.

Since I’ve been skimping on my blog in the past few months, a lot of people have been asking me, "what the heck are you doing these days?"

Well, though I have a number of small projects in the works (teaching my women’s group how to pay their salaries, another improved cookstove project, soy workshops, raising chickens with my friend Patience, and working with my women's group in an attempt to execute a greenhouse project), my main deal these days is fish.

Fish farming, to be more specific – quite different than tomato and squash farming, as I quickly learned.

It started during my first or second week in Akono.  Madame Manga, my counterpart, brought me to an ADEVAK (Association for the Development of Akono) meeting so that I could introduce myself to people that may be interested in working with a Peace Corps Volunteer.  After the meeting, a man approached me – Monsieur Mfugue, AKA Dr. Cesar Pinkules, AKA Mr. Fish.  (Okay, so only I call him Mr. Fish, and that’s because I didn’t know his name for the first few months).

Anyways, Mr. Fish invited me to his home in Mfida to check out his fish ponds.  He had been working in pisciculture for more than 12 years, but was not seeing results anywhere near the potential.  As he gave me a tour of his six ponds, I could see that he was filled with motivation and a true passion for pisciculture.  Despite his lack of success after 12 years, he was not discouraged and still aimed to improved, explaining to me, “Rome wasn’t built in a day, and Albert Einstein didn’t become a genius overnight.  There's still hope for us here!"

His passion inspired me, and as we sat and talked more about his experience and my own experience, I was completely honest with him:  “I know absolutely nothing about fish farming.  In fact, I don’t even like to eat fish.  But I see that you are a hard working man and that you have a passion to continue working in this field.”  I explained that despite my utter lack of knowledge, I could call up my program managers, Tiki and Therese, and see if he had any connections to people that could help out my new friend, or at the very least, a document about fish farming.

Well it turns out neither Tiki nor Therese knew anything about fish farming, and thus they directed me to meet with the country director, Mark Orlic.  Mark was a Peace Corps Volunteer who specialized in aquaculture back in the day – if there is anyone who knows fish, it’s this guy.

Mark began giving me some really great advice, which I then relayed back to Mr. Fish.  As more people in Akono began to gain an interest in what I was doing, I began talking more and more about pisciculture, and finding more and more passionate fish farmers.

A fish harvest in Oveng.

All of a sudden, I realized that there are dozens of ponds around here that I had never noticed before!  After a bit of investigation, I learned very few of these fish farmers have had any actual training and, much like Mr. Fish, none of them are producing nearly as much fish as they would like.

So what does this all mean?  Where do I go from here?

Peace Corps is providing me with the wonderful opportunity to travel to Zambia to shadow a few other PCVs in what stands as the last remaining fisheries program in all of Peace Corps worldwide.  Myself and another volunteer, Leana Schwartz, will be spending two weeks learning as much as we can about fish farming – from selecting a site, to digging the pond, to harvesting, to marketing and selling.  We will then bring back what we have learned, and help to train other volunteers, essentially as the “pioneers” of fish farming within PC Cameroon.

Fish ponds in Mbengwi, NW, Cameroon

In preparation for this training in Zambia, I’ve been talking to fish farmers in order to learn as much as I can to get a foundation, and also to learn what the main challenges are for fish farmers here in Akono.  Additionally, I spent a week visiting Leana in Mbengwi, in the North West region, so that we could team up and visit government fish stations to analyze their current activities and to get a basic understanding of some of the techniques.  That way we can know what sorts of things to look out for in Zambia. Hopefully the end result will not just be increased productivity in ponds around Akono, but new ponds in many villages across Cameroon under Peace Corps’s tutelage!

So hats off to Mr. Fish for getting this ball rolling on!  Here’s hoping that great things come out of Zambia!  Catch up with y’all in a few weeks!  

Catching fish with the Mfugue fmaily

The Perfect Valentine: Mount Cameroon Race of Hope

My valentine this year was the tallest mountain in West/Central Africa, and what a date we had!  On February 14^th, I participated in the Race of Hope Relay – a 24-mile race up and down the 13,250ft tall Mount Cameroon (an active volcano, I'd like to add!) – with my two amazing teammates Layne Anderson and Calla Kingery.

Logistics of the relay:

There are three legs.  Runner 1 (Layne) starts at the stadium at 7:00AM (Cameroonian time…so closer to 7:30).  She runs 6km to the beginning of the trail (all uphill), and then 5km up the mountain to Hut 1.  She then passes the sash to Runner 2 (Calla), who hiked up the night before and slept on the mountain.  Runner 2 then powers through the steepest and most technically challenging 2.5km of the mountain, and hands the sash to Runner 3 (me) before hiking back down to Hut 1.  Runner 3 then hikes about 4km to the summit, and then turns around and runs down the mountain, collecting the other teammates at Hut 1 and running back to the stadium to finish together.

Okay.  So now that the basics are out of the way, let’s tell the tale.

There were three Peace Corps relay teams running, which meant that I had two other PCVs to hike up with the day before the race – Bridget Patton (who I did site visit with during training), and Will Godfrey (a fellow White Rice agro!)

We had scheduled to begin hiking at 10AM that day, but we were told that the relay t-shirts would be ready soon, so we thought we’d wait so that our Leg 2 runners didn’t have to carry them up the mountain.  After discussing with many race officials, we learned that the t-shirts were still being printed in Douala.  Of course.  Around 11:30AM, after buying plenty of food and water, we decided to just take off and send the t-shirts up during the night with someone else.

I had hiked the mountain previously with my mom and my brother Mike, but this time was different.  This time we were hiking with a goal.  Will, Bridget, and I trucked along, with the goal to make it to Hut 2 with enough time and daylight left to set up camp and binge…er… “carbo-load” on peanut butter sandwiches and all the other tasty snacks in our bag.

We made it to Hut 2 by 5PM, and while Will and I waited for Bridget and our porter Smith to catch up, we downed dozens of cookies and peanut butter.

Prior to starting the hike, we had been assured that the race officials would provide tents for all of the relay runners at each of the huts.  Upon arrival at Hut 2 (“Hut 2” being just the name to symbolize the remains of the structure that burnt down over a year ago), Will asked the officials where the tents were.  The response was essentially, “there are no tents…I hope you brought sleeping bags!"

So we wiped the dirt and dust from all our limbs, changed into our warm clothes, and as soon as we finished chowing down on the various food items we had brought, we snuggled up in our sleeping bags on a bed of straw, inside the remains of the burnt down hut, under a corrugated tin roof.  After some chitchat, we decided that it was probably time to go to sleep… (Time check: 7:35PM)

Throughout the night, other relay runners, porters, race officials, and reporters kept arriving.  I fell asleep around 8:30, but remember waking up at 9, 10, 11, and 2:30AM.  When we went to sleep, we were the only people sleeping in our section of the burnt down hut.  By the time we woke up, we were packed in like sardines, next to Cameroonian runners, Kenyan runners, and their crews.

Our porter, Smith, decided he was tired and was ready to hike down early that morning, but luckily the Leg 2 runners’ porter, Vitalus, had hiked up in the middle of the night to deliver our “official race t-shirts” – XXXXL polo shirts (yep, you read that right.  Four X’s).  Vitalus allowed us to take our time moseying on out of our sleeping bags and packing up our bag.  In fact, we ate our breakfasts while snuggled up, and had just barely finished packing up as the first runners flew past us around 9:00AM.

By 10:00AM (probably earlier than that, actually), our Peace Corps superstar solo-runner Kat McNeil had already past.  Not long after, we saw Drew, our first Peace Corps relay runner, approaching hut two.  He handed his sash off to Will, who began sprinting to the summit like a beast.

The race officials warned us that if the Leg 2 runners didn’t reach Hut 2 by 11:00AM, the Leg 3 runners could not continue.  Around 10:40AM (once he had had plenty of peanuts and water), Bridget and I decided to send Drew back down the mountain to the farthest point that we could still see, and give us two hands up if he saw either of our runners.  As soon as we got the signal, the nerves really kicked in.  We saw Calla powering through the steepest part of the hike, and began cheering as loud (not the best idea to waste your breath screaming when you’re about to begin running at high altitude…).

She passed me the sash and off I went!

I’d be lying if I said that I was actually able to “run” the to the summit.  Let’s call it a fast hike.  A power hike.  Using a walking stick to help me power through the steep parts (as per advice of other runners), I gave it my all.  At this point, the first runners were already beginning to pass me on their way down, and I had to make a few brief stops to make way for those who may actually have a claim-for-fame or money at stake.

I had been hiking for about an hour and still hadn’t seen Kat pass me on the way down, so knew I had a ways to go.  A foreign hiker (not participating in the race) informed me that I still had about an hour to go til hut three.  Not long after, Kat breezed by me with her gigantic smile.  We cheered for each other and she said “only 15 more minutes!!”  Phew!!   Five to ten minutes later, Will came thundering down. “You still have so much farther to go!”  ARGH.  Is it an hour?  Is it 15 more minutes?  Will I ever make it?

Along the way, I passed so many people (runners, hikers, photographers, journalists, water carriers) and received nothing but encouragement.  “You’re such a strong woman!”  “Du courage!"

I reached Hut 3 at exactly 12:30PM.  I knew from here, based on my hike back in November, that there was only a 40 minute hike left – and that was walking pace, in the pouring rain and thick fog.  That meant only 20-30 minutes running til the summit.  Totally doable!

But that’s when I was stopped.  The race officials, water carriers, and security had already packed up.  “We know that if you’ve reached this point, you’d be able to make it the rest of the way.  But we’re ready to start hiking down, so you should turn around here.”   Dang it!   So close!  But nonetheless, they gave me the bracelet saying that our team made it all the way, and we became the second Peace Corps relay team ever (or at least as far as we know it, with Will’s team being the first) to not be disqualified.

I was thrilled to finally be headed downhill.  I ran as fast as I could while still paying attention to the loose rocks.  I channeled my inner gazelle.  I fell gazillions of times (I guess my inner gazelle isn't all that gazelle-like), and quickly learned that American curse words are very much understood by francophone Cameroonians, as the man in front of me kept turning around to check on me.  I followed that man closely, making sure to step on the same steady stones so as not to lose my footing... (I love running down mountains, but there are so many loose rocks on Mount Cameroon that it wouldn’t be crazy to put on a helmet and some elbow and knee pads and just log-roll all the way down).

Finally, around 2:30PM, I made it down most of the mountain, and arrived at Hut 1.

“Team USA is coming!  USA is coming!  Which team is it?  USA 1 GET READY!"

I was SO relieved to see Layne and Calla, along with Mary and Cait from the other girls’ team.  As I ran past Hut 1, our team was reunited.  Without stopping, the other two joined me and we began the final stretch to the finish line – only 11km to go!   

The first 5km we were full of energy, hopping over rocks and stumps and sharing stories from our own portions of the run.  Then we hit pavement and I began to lose it.  There was only 6km remaining, but it was the most difficult 6km of my life.  I was nearing the point of having run 5 hours straight, my camel-back was empty, and there was no water in sight (except a fountain, which I gladly stuck my head in). I was so incredibly thankful to have my amazing teammates by my side, enthusiastically pulling me along, encouraging me all the way to the finish line.

The three of us crossed the finish line just after 4PM, and were greeted by many PCVs with cameras, cheers, smiles, and water.

Race of Hope has by far been the coolest experience I’ve had in Cameroon so far.  I got to sleep on a mountain in open air; everyone that I met throughout the course was full of encouragement and wonderful sportsmanship; I ran up and down a gigantic mountain; and I got to share this incredible experience with my two incredible teammates (we will forever be bonded by that sweaty sash!)

Basically (sorry for my lack of eloquence), it was just really freakin’ cool.

I’d like to give a shout out to all the other PCV’s who were in Buea that weekend.  First of all – huge congrats too all of the runners, especially to Kat for running solo and being the 11^th woman overall, finishing in less than 6.5 hours and shaving 25 minutes off her PR.  But I’d also like to congratulate the 40ish volunteers that were in Buea to participate in a malaria sensitization campaign and an HIV/AIDS testing campaign.  Peace Corps tested more than 700 people in Buea during the Race of Hope, along with providing pre-test counseling.

What a great way to spend Valentine’s Day!

Mom and Mike Visit Cameroon: Part 5 -- American Family, meet Cameroonian Family

Having my family visit Akono was no doubt an incredibly special opportunity for all of us.  This evening, my mom and I were talking about how it wasn't so much of a "touristy vacation", but rather an "experience".  More important than any sites to be seen in Cameroon, Mom and Mike got to get a taste of what my life is like here and meet the people that they hear about all the time on the phone or when we Skype.

Our first day, Carole and Michael invited us over for lunch.  Carole has been my best friend in Akono since my first week here, and Mom and Mike quickly learned why.  Her family – Carole, Michael, and their three children – are not just incredibly kind and hospitable, but they are full of life.  Not only do they have hearts of gold, but they are full of laughter and love, and are always looking to have a good time.  The minute they opened the door, they gave Mom and Mike big bear hugs, totally thrilled to meet people that up until that moment, were simply names and ideas of people that existed in my American life.

Carole prepared a big feast for my family: spaghetti omelets, koki, salad, bananas, papaya -- I don’t remember what else, but I'm sure there was more.  Then Mom, Carole, and the two Michaels sat on the couch together flipping through old photo albums.  While Carole doesn’t speak English, Michael is Anglophone, so between he and I, everyone was able to get along and communicate just fine.

We spent a lot of time with them.  The kids took a huge liking to “Uncle Mike”, constantly jumping on him, driving Hot-Wheels cars across his face, and borrowing his watch.  

One night, Carole and Michael came over around dinnertime while Mom and Mike and I were playing cards, so I whipped up some pesto pasta (they were astonished to learn that I knew how to cook) and we spent the night drinking wine, playing Uno, and discussing development and education.

Carole came along with us for evening walks, taught my mom how to make a local dish (fish with black sauce), and even accompanied us for a trip to Mbalmayo to go on a canoe trip through the forest.  

On my family's last day in Akono, Carole prepared a final lunch for us to eat together, and they presented Mom and Mike each with a traditional Cameroonian outfit.  

It was fun to share Carole and Michael with my family, and vice versa.  Now my Cameroonian family knows a piece of my real family.  Finally they can put faces to the names.  And more importantly, I think my mom was happy to learn that I truly am surrounded by wonderful people here in Akono – people that are not only fun to be around, but who protect me and look out for me, and will treat me like family.

Of course they also met other key people in my life here – we had a brief encounter with my counterpart Madame Manga, shared a beer with Madame Obama, spent time at my good friend Patience’s bar, met Mama Sofie and her exuberant and kind family that owns the main boutique in town, bought bean sandwiches from Mama Melanie and plantain chips from my neighbor Marie.  With just a week’s visit, my world here in Akono was transformed from simple stories to real people and places. Now my Mom will have a understanding of what I mean when I say things like “today I was hanging out with Patience…” These people and places that exist in my Peace Corps life are real to her now as well, and to me, that is invaluable. 

Mom and Mike Visit Cameroon: Part 4 -- Mike’s Favorite Day (From Limbe to Yaounde)

I might be the only Peace Corps volunteer in Cameroon who loves (not even just “likes”, or “doesn’t dislike”, but actually “enjoys”) public transportation in Cameroon.  There’s always so much to see outside the window and there’s always a chance to meet interesting people.  I never find it particularly uncomfortable, and I enjoy just listening to music and spacing out.

I pampered Mom and Mike for their first few days in Cameroon.  We started by "depo-ing" taxis (meaning to rent the whole taxi rather than squish in with x number of strangers picked up along the way).  We even took the train to Douala followed by a car to Buea, rather than the direct bus ride from Yaounde to Buea.  Talk about spoiled brats!  But honestly, it felt great to be luxurious and put us all at ease. (Plus the train gave us free chocolate croissants, so that was pretty awesome).

After Limbe however, the gloves came off.  It was time for the bus ride from Limbe to Yaounde – typically a 6 hour ride. There was really no other choice.  It was squish in this bus, or stay at this fabulous beach forever.

Sometimes, we get lucky – the bus is new, there’s air conditioning, the trip goes pretty fast.  This particular day was not one of those lucky ones: we got the oldest, slowest bus on the planet.  This bus was chugging along at a snails pace, as all the other cars and buses breezed past.  On top of that, the seats were particularly cramped.  This is never an issue for me – I am physically uncomfortable with too much legroom and would rather be squished and constricted to small places. (Call me weird, or whatever.  Ain't like I haven't heard it before!)  My brother – a rather tall dude whose legs were sore from hiking the tallest mountain in West Africa – was less than pleased with the seating arrangements.

He was also less than pleased with the extreme heat and humidity in the bus – actually, pretty much every Cameroonian passenger was also complaining about how much of a sweat-box it was.  Not only was there no air-conditioning, but none of the windows opened.  The only airflow in the bus came from the rooftop emergency exits and from the door, which kept slamming shut.  Luckily during our stop in Douala, the sweatiest city in the world, a man sitting next to me came back onto the bus with ice cream.  I asked him where he bought it, and instead of just showing me, he treated us each a refreshing cone.

Physical discomfort on the bus rides not only comes in the form of lack of legroom and ultra-sweatiness, but also from the lack of bathroom breaks.  I felt like a parent, warning Mom and Mike that they were not allowed to consume to many liquids, and they should be wary of things that might give them rumbly tummies – you never know how long the driver will go before stopping for a bathroom break, if he even stops at all.  Fortunately for me, I’ve had years of training for this.  Summer vacations with my Uncle Ron have trained me to endure 10 hours in a car without peeing.  (Thanks Uncle Ron!  I knew this would come in handy someday!)  It takes a delicate balance of hydrating yourself enough to make up for the liters of sweat pouring out of you, while staying dehydrated enough to not need a pit stop – a delicate balance, indeed.

All physical discomforts aside, Mom was quite enthralled by the on-bus live entertainment.  The ride started out with a pastor coming on to sing some prayers and pray for a safe journey.  Now, I’m kind of fuzzy on the details, and I’m sure if you talk to my mother, she’ll either set me straight or give you a completely different hyperbolized version of the story, but I think the pastor finished up the prayers and started selling cookies?  I’m not quite sure how the logistics were.  All I know is that he was selling multiple brands, and we got free samples.  Once he left, a few other salesmen popped in and out along the journey, selling everything from medications, toothbrushes, candies, and deals at a hotel in Yaounde.  Most of them advertised loudly and steadily for at least a solid half hour.  I, like my mother, usually find this quite entertaining.  Towards the end of the ride, most of the passengers around us were telling the salesmen to just shut their mouths. When I get tired of it, I just turn my iPod up at full blast to drown out their sales pitches, but for the most part, these live infomercials continue to be an amusing aspect of public transportation here in Cameroon.

We arrived in Yaounde around 6PM – two hours later than scheduled.  It was an 8-hour bus ride (and I have to admit, it was not the easiest trip), the sun was setting, and we still had another hour-long trip to get to Akono.

We lugged all seven bags (three of which were filled with candies and treats) down to the car park, and loaded ourselves into a crowded van.  We were the last passengers on the van, so we were unable to sit together – Mom and Mike near the back, and myself sharing the passenger seat with a woman named Rosalie (who later turned out to become a very wonderful friend and work partner and is actually on her way to visit as I type.)

By the time we arrived in Akono, we were the last passengers in the van, so the driver was kind enough to drive us directly to my house.  At long last, we were able to shower, pee, relax, and eat some delicious mac & cheese.

It was a tough day for my visitors, but I think it taught us all a valuable lesson: if Mike ever moves to Cameroon, he should definitely have his own car.

Mom and Mike Visit Cameroon: Part 3 -- Limbe fun times!

While hanging out in Limbe, we tried to split our time pretty equally between beach and town.  I was hesitant to book the hotel for three nights, rather than just two, knowing that Mom gets antsy and needs to have a jam-packed schedule (this turned out to be a very difficult obstacle for her to overcome during her two weeks in Cameroon, where things move at their own pace).  Nevertheless, once we got her in the water, she was quite at ease.  The three of us spent hours jumping over the waves, under the waves, through the waves.  Mike and I particularly enjoyed pretending to be sea-trash, floating wherever the water took us, log-rolling on the sand as the waves pushed us in and out.  I haven’t met any PCVs who I can comfortably have such stupid fun with, so being sea-trash was truly a special moment.

But the beach isn't the only highlight of Limbe, and neither is the Wildlife Center, despite my mother’s love for monkeys.

Each day when going into town, we would stand on the side of the road and wait for a car…essentially hitchhiking.  This is such a normal way for people to travel around here, that I’m sure I had never even mentioned it to anyone, even in a phone call.  Sure, sometimes we’d get picked up by a licensed cab and squish in alongside 3 large mamas in the backseat and another in the front (making for a total of 7 passengers), but occasionally we’d get picked up by a random man just willing to do us a favor.

Once we got to down, our main destination was typically Down Beach.  This is where Mom and Mike ate their first “poisson braissé" – grilled fish, eaten whole, and eaten with your hands. (Never a fan of fish, I sought out beans and rice nearby).  We ate at a table on the beach, sipping beers, and occasionally bargaining with the salesmen who came by offering CDs, souvenirs, and other snacks.

Mom particularly had fun at the market.  We were on a mission to buy pagne – traditional African printed fabric.  As we popped in from one boutique to another, I think my family was both shocked and amused by my ruthless bargaining.  No matter the price, I will always try to get it lower.  (Much to my dismay, we got no great deals, and no free gifts.  But at least we had some laughs).

Walking along in the market, Mom would say, “what’s that woman cooking?”  Kosai!  White bean beignets!  Basically ground-up white beans that are then deep-fried, they taste chicken nuggets.  Being high in calories, they are very popular in the Muslim community during Ramadan, and were a staple dinner for me last June (thank goodness for running and for skirts with stretch waistbands).  I excitedly bought three for us to share as we continued to roam the market.

And that was Limbe!  Lots of swimming, monkeys, fish, bargaining, beer, wine, and card playing.  Not a bad time at all!

Mom and Mike Visit Cameroon: Part 2 (finally!)

I haven’t blogged in a while, partly because I’m content and comfortable and at the end of the day I want nothing more than to settle down with my sketchbook or a good read, and partly because I feel that I cant write anything until I write the several episodes of “Mom and Mike Visit Cameroon”.  Yet I can’t seem to write about that either, because while it was incredibly special to have them here, they were just seeing what I see every day, experiencing “my normal” – and how does one write about “normal”?

Sure, we hiked Mount Cameroon.  That was a blast.  But mountains are mountains – you’ve all hiked them, or heard or read tales of people hiking them.  This was no different (aside from the fact that it started pouring rain halfway up, our clothes got soaked through, and at the summit we were stuck in a cloud so thick that my camera lens could hardly make out an object 4 feet away).  We did enjoy camping in tents, listening to our porters banter in Pidgin English and joking around with remixes of children’s songs (Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes – with a twist!).  I enjoyed waking up Mike in the morning first-day-of-school style, and our fellow hiker, Annelise, never complained about the racket in the tent next door.

But that’s a mountain.  And then after that, we went to a beach.  Typical tourism, typical life, ya know?

So what is there to write about?  While climbing to the highest point in West/Central Africa and playing in the waves in Limbe were no doubt exciting adventures, the best part of Mom and Mike’s visit to Cameroon (in my opinion), was having them experience what I experience on a daily basis: negotiating at the market, buying random street food just because it looks interesting, *super comfy* transportation, chitchat with complete strangers, constant marriage proposals, breakfast beers, hanging out with friends in village, etc.

These are the things that have become my “normal,” and consequently I probably don’t mention them very much in my blog.  But I guess now I’ll try to address them, so that the rest of you will have an idea of the experiences that I got to share with Mom and Mike.

And thus it continues – the adventures of Mom and Mike in Cameroon!