Home Sweet Home

After a month of traveling, I was more than anxious to return home to Sanguéré-Paul.  It was great to visit other regions of Cameroon, but there is something special about the folks up North, and I was beyond ready to be reunited with them.

As soon as I got on the bus in Ngaoundéré, I could already feel the warmth and kindness of the Northerners around me.  Women were greeting me in Fulfulde and smiling incessantly at me, the man next to me kept up a friendly conversation without asking me to be his wife, and one lady even bought me a water sachet at a rest stop.

As the bus drove on, the scenery changed.  The soil was no longer rich browns or reds, but instead had changed into the dusty sandy tan that I have grown used to. The trees became more and more sparse.  Houses turned into huts.  Villages were scattered with people lying out and taking naps.

When I finally arrived back at home, one of my best friends, Tabitha (Olivier’s mom), happened to be next door at my neighbors’ house.

“Maria! Bon arrivée!”  She ran over and embraced me in the biggest bear hug, her two youngest children trailing behind to hug me too.  “You said you’d be back on the 15^th, so the children went and swept your house and arranged everything, all the while chanting ‘Maria va venir! Maria va venir!’”  We exchanged stories of all that had happened while I was gone, and then she left me to unpack while she went to collect seeds.

As my mother knows very well, I don’t unpack.  I left my overstuffed suitcases right where they were in the middle of the living room, and since I arrived right smack in the heart of mango season, I decided to walk down to the carrefour to buy some mangoes and to greet some more friends.  As I walked down the path, a group of children approached me.

“Miriam! Miriam!”

“Non, c’est Maria!!  Bon arrivée, Maria!” 

It may have taken a month of absence but the kids finally know my name!  I didn’t recognize any of these kids, but they sure knew me!

I kept walking, only to be stopped by a group of women seated on a mat, preparing to eat lunch.

“Bon arrivée!  You were gone for too long!  Come taste this sauce!”  I didn’t recognize any of these ladies, and I had already eaten lunch, but I joined them anyway.  We chatted and laughed together as we ate, and made plans to cook together soon.

Finally I made it to the carrefour.  I said hello my onion man, and then my favorite boutique owner.  “I didn’t know you were leaving!  I kept asking, ‘where did madame go?’ But you are here now, and I am so happy!” 

Finally, I said hi to my favorite fish mama – the woman who keeps Grumps fat and happy.  When she saw me, she started dancing and ran over to give me a hug.  

I am touched by how excited people are to have me back.  I’ve been in Cameroon for more than six months now, and in Sanguéré-Paul for nearly four months.  In just four months and this village has become my home.  

I remember when I got my post description back in October, I was far less than excited… Terrified would be a more accurate description.  I wanted a post that was lush and beautiful – full of greenery, rich soil, fruits and veggies, and maybe a waterfall here or there.  (Is a waterfall really too much to ask for?)  I feared the 120º weather and the severe lack of water.  I feared malnutrition from lack of fruits and vegetables (but let’s be honest – we all know I would choose nutella-rice over veggies any day.  And yes, ‘nutella-rice’ is an appropriate meal and not weird at all.  It’s delicious).   We joked about how the next volunteer would find me curled up in the corner, covered in cobwebs, clutching a bottle of wine, with tick-marks on the wall marking the days gone by.  Perhaps that’s a bit dark, I know, but that’s how not excited I was to be going to the North.

Well, four months have gone by, and I am certain that I am exactly where I’m supposed to be.  The culture in the North is calm and kind, and I could not feel more at ease.  I have a community host and a counterpart who strive to be an active part of my life, and I have lots of projects lined up for the future.  I’m even kind of beginning to like the heat (though right now it’s hot season – 130º in the sun, 105º in the shade).  But most importantly, I have friends who feel like family, and who have made me feel like Sanguéré-Paul is my home.  No waterfall in the world is worth what I have here in Sanguéré-Paul (though if a waterfall were to magically sprout up, I certainly wouldn’t oppose!)

And on top of it all, my neighbors have a brand new baby goat!