Thursday, July 31, 2014

This is it, Sanguéré-Paul. This is goodbye.

About a year ago, I was in my kitchen preparing for my Peace Corps adventure.  My dad said, "hey, did you here about this Boko Haram group that just bombed a church or school in Nigeria?"  I responded, "but that's in Nigeria, Dad.  I won't have to worry about stuff like that, I'll be in the magical land of Cameroon!"

Sitting around the table waiting for lunch yesterday at the Salon du Thé in Garoua, our stomachs suddenly became unsettled when the name "Lindsey" flashed up on Santina's cellphone.  This was it:  this was the call we've been dreading.

Santina stepped outside, while the rest of us quickly brainstormed any possible reason for Admin to call, anything other than the one reason that we knew to be true, the one reason we feared.

Rejoining us inside, Santina muttered the words no one wanted to hear: "we're getting closed."  She handed the phone to Ampson, then me, and then Kevin, so that we could each have our turn to hear the news directly.  Suddenly I no longer wanted the omelet and avocado that sat in front of me.

Each Wednesday, Peace Corps Admin meets with the Security Council at the Embassy to discuss our safety as volunteers at our various posts in Cameroon.  The North region has been on thin ice for a while now.  We were informed about a month ago that the vote was 5 to 4 to keep us open.  The risks posed by Boko Haram were simply becoming too high.  We knew with a count like this, it was only one more incident until the scales shifted against us.

Boko Haram, a terrorist organization whose name roughly translates to "Western education is a sin", has been becoming increasingly active over the past few years in Nigeria and Northern Cameroon.

The first round of Peace Corps post closures began before I even arrived in Cameroon, after Boko Haram kidnapped a French family in Waza.  With this first incident, the entire Extreme North and some volunteers in the North were relocated.  

But Boko didn't stop there.  Since the kidnapping of the family in Waza, there have been countless more kidnappings and brutal attacks.  You may be familiar with the slogan #BringBackOurGirls, which came about after Boko Haram kidnapped over 230 school girls from Chibok, Nigeria.  Boko has also been responsible for the kidnapping of a French priest, two Italian priests and a Canadian nun, and several Chinese workers.  This is not to forget the countless number of lives taken during attacks against Nigerians and Cameroonians.

As Boko Haram continued wreaking havoc, and as that havoc continued to spread across the border into Cameroon, one by one, more posts were closed.  When I arrived in Garoua in November, the North had 19 volunteers.  We are now at 14 (two of whom had already been relocated to Garoua from different posts in the North/Extreme North).  Peace Corps was hoping to keep the rest of us up here for now, while maintaining a low profile, until eventually it was safe to increase our numbers and reopen old posts.   

Though I have never once felt threatened in my community, that doesn't mean the risks don't exist.  I remember once on a bus ride from Ngaoundéré to Garoua, a stone fell off the back of a truck in front of us, shattering the window of our bus.  After realizing we were all safe, the man sitting next to me said (in French) "Shit! I thought that was Boko Haram coming for us!"  During another bus ride, we were stopped at a checkpoint so that police could check our IDs.  One passenger could not find his.  The entire bus agreed, "let's leave him behind.  We don't know who he is or where he's coming from.  Even we, the Cameroonians, are scared for our security."  No matter how safe I feel in my village, no matter how many of my neighbors are looking out for me, I cant pretend that living in the North is without risk.

Unfortunately, with the most recent incident (the kidnapping of the Vice Prime Minister’s wife as well as a village chief and his family), the security risks are simply becoming too high.

I appreciate the way that Peace Corps is handling the situation.  With a few of the past closures, volunteers were informed of their own post closure via other volunteers (gossip travels like wildfire here).  For us, the last Northies standing, Admin ensured that we were the first to hear the news, even before other PC staff.  We have nearly two weeks to wrap up our final projects, pack our belongings, and say our goodbyes.  I have even already been presented with two new post options (neither of which I have accepted yet, simply because neither of them could ever be like my home here in Sanguéré-Paul). 

Now all that I can do is make the most of my remaining 11 days here in my beloved village of Sanguéré-Paul.  I’ll be meeting with various women’s groups for some last minute consultations on their project plans, teaching my friend how to make a compost, and showing some neighbors how to make tofu.  Other than that, there’s not much I can do but sit and enjoy the couscous and good company.  

This is it, Sanguéré-Paul.  This is goodbye. 

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Barka de sallah!

I may have woken up with a 102.5º fever, but I was determined not to miss out on a cultural experience.  My semi-postmate Hannah invited me to celebrate the fete de Ramadan yesterday with her and her friends in Djalingo.

Yesterday marked the end of Ramadan, a month of fasting observed by Muslims all around the world.  During this month, Muslims refrain from consuming all food and beverages (including water!), smoking, and having sexual relations, from sun-up to sun-down as a means to cleanse the soul and receive forgiveness from God.  While Sanguéré-Paul is predominantly Christian, the majority of the population in the Grand North of Cameroon (i.e., Adamaoua, North, and Extreme North regions) practice Islam. 

My semi-postmate Hannah invited me to celebrate with her and her friends in Djalingo.

We started the day by setting off for the morning prayer at 9AM.  This morning prayer is for men only (and highly respected elderly women), but we were invited to come and watch.  The mosque in Djalingo was not large enough to fit everybody at once, so everybody walked or drove their motorcycles to a nearby field (sort of like the overflow room across the street from church for Christmas and Easter masses). 


We sat behind the crowd, so as not to disrupt those praying.  Nevertheless, many fidgety little boys could help but to keep turning their heads and whispering "Hannah!!!" 

Preparing for prayer.


This little guy missed the memo...
Two women joined to pray, but seated themselves at a distance.

Hannah and I in our pagne ensembles, posing with our fave police chief and some of Hannah's friends after the prayer.

After prayer, it was time to celebrate.  We walked from house to house, visiting each of Hannah's closest friends in village, and feasting to celebrate the end of fasting.  We went to seven houses between 10:30AM and 2:PM and managed to eat six meals each.  Six plates of rice, each with the same simple oily sauce and a chunk of meat on top, often accompanied by sweet chai and soda.  At our first house, we even had appetizers of bread and beignets.

Let's just say, we carbo-loaded as if we were about to run six marathons (and I didn't even participate in the fasting!).

We simply couldn't refuse, however.  Feeding us was each host's way of showing their hospitality, and everybody was so incredibly warm and friendly and happy for us to be joining them in celebration - overstuffed tummies were truly a small price to pay!

With each family we would sit, chat, and eat before moving on to the next house.  At one house, we even had the luxury of getting to watch a snippet of Winnie the Pooh! 

This is for real.  In Cameroon.

At around 2PM when our tummies were about to explode, we walked back to Hannah's house and lounged around like blobs on the couch as we digested.  At this point, my fever had gone down to about 100, but PCMO requested that I take a malaria test, which meant that Hannah had to poke my finger with a needle while I squirmed and cried like a baby. 

Look Ma, I passed!  No malaria, wootwoot!
It was a lot of fun to meet Hannah's friends and to see more of a village other than my own.  Djalingo is about twice the size of Sanguéré-Paul, and has a very different feel.  Sanguéré-Paul is an agricultural village with large amounts of space between households, whereas Djalingo seems denser.  When I visit my friends in Sanguéré-Paul, we never sit inside (with the one exception being when I visit Madame Tizi, who has a larger house), because household structures are no more than a 10'x10' square hut that makes up the bedroom.  Everyone is outside, all day long, except for when they sleep (and even then, they stay outside!).  In Djalingo, however, we sat inside with each family we visited.  It was definitely interesting to experience these differences in villages that are only 5km apart.

Saturday, July 26, 2014

La vie sans lumières

I’ve been absent for a while – sorry about that!  Let me explain...

Northern Cameroon does not have the four seasons that we are used to in North America.  Spring?  Nope.  Fall?  Nope.  Winter?  Absolutely not.

Though it feels like summer every single gosh-darn day with temperatures around 90º in the shade and 110-135º in the sun, the North region of Cameroon experiences two distinct seasons: rainy season (June through September) and dry season (October through May).  We are currently smack dab in the middle of rainy season, which is absolutely fantastic.  Green things are popping up out of the ground everywhere you look, the cows are getting fatter, people are busy working on their farms, and the wells are filling back up.

Catching rain on my veranda earlier this season.
It typically rains once or twice a week.  Each storm is accompanied by wild winds, which seem to temporarily blow away the heat.  The following morning is always a bit chilly (I find myself waking up with my toes tucked under my sheet, and people are sporting jackets and hats…80º mornings are hard to adapt to!).  Day by day, the clouds clear and the temperature rises steadily, until finally it becomes almost unbearably hot again.  Right when you swear that you’re about to die of heat stroke (and perhaps after a prayer to Mother Nature or a little rain dance), the wind comes and the rain falls, washing away the heat.  

I’m absolutely loving rainy season.  My cucumber, squash, and tomato plants are all thriving, I’ve been enjoying sharing veggie seeds and tomato seedlings with friends and neighbors.  And while others button up their unnecessarily bulky jackets, I savor each brisk, rainy morning by sipping hot cocoa while reading a good book.

This all being said, there is a downside to rainy season: frequent power outages.  Electricity is relatively new in Sanguéré-Paul, having been set up within the past 5-10 years.  In fact, many households are still not connected to power lines.  The power lines that do exist are, for the most part, held up by trees.  Consequently, they do not withstand the wind and rainstorms very well.  Within the past two months, I may have had electricity for a total of three weeks.  Oftentimes, the power company will come fix whatever problem they find, and then the lights are knocked out again with a new storm that very same night and the power company will not come back for another week or two. 

Though I definitely live close enough to Garoua to travel to town and charge my electronics whenever I’d like, I’ve decided to savor life without electricity.  I’ve been trying my best to disconnect myself from my laptop.  Each night, I come home and light a candle at 6:30 or 7PM.  If I haven’t already eaten dinner with Tabitha or Madame Tizi, I’ll cook up something simple or, more likely, eat some delicious care package goodies.  Occasionally I’ll pour a glass of wine and attempt to paint by candlelight, which always yields amusing results.  Then I’ll bring my candle into the bathroom for my nightly bucket bath (and let’s be real – a bucket bath by candlelight is about the most romance I’ll experience au village…especially if I warm up my water on the stove!).  Once the day's sunscreen, sweat, dirt, and dust are all washed away, I settle in nice and snug under my mosquito net, accompanied by a good book.  

Without electricity – without being so attached to my laptop – I feel as if my spirit has been refreshed.  Alone at home each night, I often find myself singing to myself, dancing, and doing a whole lot of Sudokus (thanks Pap!).  I am finding better ways to fill my time than staring at a computer screen.  Consequently, even when I do have electricity, I simply don’t feel any urgency to log on to blogger and inform the internet world (A.K.A. Ma and Gramma) of my happenings.

Live without lights, though my Cameroonian friends argue otherwise, has been a refreshing change this rainy season.  I have to admit I am still annoyed whenever I set out for a morning run to find that my iPod is nearly out of battery, but for the most part la vie sans lumières is leading to self-improvement and increased happiness.  

And that, my friends, is why I’ve been so neglectful of my blog for the past month.

A simple exchange.

Every time I walk through the carrefour, no matter how many times per day, I stop to chat with my onion guy, a kind old man with graying hair and few teeth.

He is one of the many community members who truly pushes me to learn Fulfulde, and very obviously appreciates (or at least is amused by) my effort.

Sometimes our exchanges are as simple as a greeting.  On more than one occasion, I’m pretty sure that I accidentally agreed to be his wife (after which he simply laughed at my foolishness by saying “Kai, Mariamma, kaiiii” – “No, Maria, nooo.”)

One of our little Fulfulde exchanges the other day was considerably more amusing than usual.

Maria:  Sannu sobajo,  jam na?  [Hi friend, how are you?]
Onion Guy:  Sannu, Mariamma, sannu!  Jamnitow!  Jam bandu na? [Hi Maria, hi! I'm great!  How are you?]
M: Jam koo dume. [I'm doing well!]
OG:  A humi ha toy?  A humi Garoua na? [Where are you coming from?  Are you coming from Garoua?]
M:  Ooho, mi humi Garoua. [Yes, I'm coming from Garoua]
OG:  A don hota?  [You're going home?]
M:  Kai.  Mi don sooda mongoro.  [Nope.  I'm going to buy a mango.]
OG:  A don sooda mongoro didi?  Mi don nyaama mongoro? [Are you going to buy two mangos?  I'm going to eat one?]
M:  Mi don sooda didi?  [So I'm going to buy two?] 
OG:  Ooho.  Mi yidi mongoro.  [Yes.  I want a mango.]
M:  Mais tu as tignéré!  A yiday tignéré?!  [But you have onions!  You dont want onions?!]
OG:  Kaaaaiiii!  Mi nyaamay tignéré!! [Noooo!  I can't eat onions!]
M: A don defa tignéré?  [but you'll cook the onions?]
OG:  Kaaaiii.  [Nooo]
M:  Okay.  Mi don soota mongoro didi.  [Okay, I'll buy two mangos.]

A minute later I returned with two mangos, handing one to the onion man.

OG:  Usoko!  Usoko jur!!  [Thanks! Thanks a lot!!]
M:  Mais je vais prendre les onions maintenant.  [But I'm going to take some onions now.]
OG:  Oui, ca va!  C’est bien! [Yes, no problem!  That's good!]
M (takes a handful of onions):  Mi hoti.  Sey jango.  [I'm going home.  See you tomorrow.]
OG:  Sey jango, Mariamma!  [See you tomorrow, Maria!]